The world of skincare is undergoing a transformation, and it's not just about the products. It's about the young girls who are falling down a rabbit hole of cosmeticorexia, an unhealthy obsession with achieving flawless skin from a young age. This phenomenon is not just a passing trend, but a multi-billion-pound industry that is rapidly growing and showing no signs of slowing down. But is it harmless fun, or are girls being permanently conditioned to think there is something wrong with the way they look? And what does it tell us about how girls today think of themselves?
One thing that immediately stands out is the rise of young skincare influencers like Ellie-May, who began using skincare and advertising it since she was eight years old. What began in lockdown as a bit of fun has become a main source of income for her family, and they have social media accounts across Facebook, TikTok, YouTube and Snapchat. Ellie-May's own TikTok account has more than 330,000 followers, and her mum Sophie says they make over £50,000 a year from posting content on their various platforms.
This is not an isolated case. Type in the words 'children and skincare' into various social media search engines and you won't struggle to find videos of hundreds of other young girls - some as young as three or four - enthusing over skincare products and make-up. Some girl skincare influencers describe themselves as 'brand ambassadors', showcasing products from the likes of Bubble, Drunk Elephant, and P. Louise. There are K-Pop Demon Hunters-themed skincare packs for a 'glow-boosting routine' for 'skin that looks luminous'.
However, while there are products clearly targeted at children, there are also brands that are popular with young people, which say they do not want to be associated with this part of the market. A source close to Drunk Elephant, for example, says it is not a 'youth-focused' brand, and that it is trying to educate its customers about how to use its products responsibly. As well as young influencers like Ellie-May, there are many more young girls who have multi-step skincare routines embedded in their day. A snapshot by Pai, a skincare brand, of 1,500 nine-to-12-year-olds suggests that nearly half are using multiple skincare products weekly, with half of those saying that they use it to fix what they perceive to be problem skin.
This raises a deeper question: is this a bit of harmless fun, or are girls being permanently conditioned to think there is something wrong with the way they look? The Italian Competition Authority (AGCM) has just launched two investigations into the beauty company LVMH, which owns the Sephora and Benefit cosmetic brands. The AGCM is examining whether the brands failed to make it clear that their products are not intended for children and adolescents, and whether they are encouraging their purchase through 'covert marketing strategies involving young micro-influencers'.
The spokesperson for LVMH says it is cooperating with Italian authorities and it 'reaffirms' its 'strict compliance with applicable Italian regulations'. However, dermatologists and academics have coined a new term: cosmeticorexia, which they define as having an unhealthy obsession with achieving 'flawless' skin from a young age, leading to an obsessive use of cosmetic products. Prof Giovanni Damiani, an Italian dermatologist from the University of Milan, was so perturbed by what he saw as the compulsion of some of his younger clients he began to investigate what was happening.
He interviewed 55 of his patients, aged between 8 and 14 years old. Those who displayed signs of cosmeticorexia, he explains, were mobile-phone obsessed, and would spend hours watching skincare videos on social media. They would also use up to 10 different skincare products daily, and they would not socialise - even with family members - without wearing make-up. The irony? They've already got it - when you're little, your skin is in perfect condition. Your skin barrier - which keeps toxins out and keeps moisture in - is beautifully preserved… That's youth, that's the beauty of skin.
Dr Jean Ayer, a consultant dermatologist, says more children than ever are now using cosmetics. Her consultations vary massively, on one end of the spectrum she has parents asking her for the best skincare regime for their young child, to children as young as eight coming into her consultation room with severe reactions to the beauty products they've been using. She says parents are often horrified, but they can't convince their child to stop using so many different products. This stuff is designed for the anti-ageing market. At best, they don't need these products. At worst, they contain harmful ingredients that can damage delicate young skin.
Dr Ayer says she's seeing an increase in younger clients with acne and contact dermatitis - a type of eczema triggered by contact with a certain substance - due to the various ingredients in these skincare products being used by children. Many of them contain active ingredients which can have a biological effect on skin cells, therefore changing how the skin functions. One of the most powerful is retinol, which works by speeding up skin cell turnover, which can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles. In children, this process is already happening at a high rate, so retinol offers no real benefit and can overstimulate the skin. This can lead to 'retinol burn' where their protective skin barrier gets damaged. Children can end up with soreness, eczema-like rashes or long-term sensitivity.
Alberto Stefana, an Italian psychologist who co-wrote a paper on cosmeticorexia with Damiani, says children are 'developing their self-identity' and they might struggle to 'accept their true image' as they grow older. So their self-esteem becomes based on how many likes they get or what people have said in their comments. As so-called cosmeticorexia is such a recent phenomenon, it is difficult to know the if there are any potential long-term psychological impacts, but Stefana says his latest research indicates there are crossovers with body dysmorphic disorder (BDD), a mental health condition that causes persistent and intense shame and anxiety over perceived body defects.
Jessica Ringrose, a professor of sociology of gender and education at University College London, agrees. Children are seeing this content and then thinking it represents the 'good life', the ideal way of being. And if they can't achieve this 'perfect look' or this 'perfect life' that's being sold to them then they think they are failing in some way. TikTok says it has special safeguards to protect teenagers online and it does not allow targeted advertising to under 18s. It also says it gives support and information to parents to help keep their children safe and that it regularly hears from teenagers about how to improve its offer through the platform's youth council. But at the same time, we live alongside, and often inside an ever-expanding digital world. Isn't this just an added, but inevitable complexity of growing up? Children - and in this case, young girls - are just learning a way of surviving, maybe even thriving, online?
In my opinion, the rise of cosmeticorexia is a complex issue that requires a multi-faceted approach. While social media platforms and skincare brands have a responsibility to educate and protect young people, parents also play a crucial role in guiding their children towards healthy and age-appropriate skincare habits. As we navigate this new digital landscape, it's essential to strike a balance between embracing the opportunities it offers and safeguarding against its potential pitfalls. Personally, I think we need to have open and honest conversations about the impact of social media on young people's self-esteem and body image, and work together to create a more positive and supportive environment for them to grow up in.
